| |
Though
discussions about photography
in magazines, classrooms,
message boards and camera
clubs often focus on
the latest photographic
equipment or the hottest
Photoshop tip, in the
end, it really comes
down to one simple thing:
the print. It’s
nice to share an image
via e-mail or by allowing
a friend to look over
your shoulder at the
camera’s LCD, but
there’s no better
way of sharing your unique
vision of the world than
by reproducing it on
paper.
Mounting and framing your
photographs play a big
role in properly displaying
and sharing your images.
It’s also key for
ensuring that those prints
last for generations. Your
choice of printer, ink
and paper, as well as the
way you handle the finished
print, all come together
to create the satisfying
experience of appreciating
a good photograph.
Inks, Papers and Lightfastness
Until recently, pigment
inks were the only way
to go for lightfastness,
but the last few generations
of dye-based inks have
been catching up, promising
decades of resistance to
fading and color shifting.
However, whether you’re
using dye-based or pigment-based
inks, your choice of paper
will have one of the greatest
impacts on the life of
your photographs.
Besides choosing between
a matte and a glossy surface,
one consideration when
selecting a paper is how
it interacts with the inks
of your printer. Paper
types, even those produced
by the same manufac-turer,
won’t behave the
same in terms of resistance
to fading, moisture and
pollutants. If lightfastness
is a key concern for prints,
it’s important to
know how long you can expect
prints to resist fading
and color shifts.
One of the best sources
for this is Wilhelm Imaging
Research (www.wilhelm-research.com),
an independent organization
that does exhaustive tests
for lightfastness on printers,
inks and papers. It provides
extensive data on print
life, using specific printers
with a wide variety of
papers.
When it comes to longevity,
it’s essential to
understand the types of
papers that are available
for inkjet printers. Three
common types include swellable,
porous and cotton rag.
Swellable papers consist
of three separate layers,
two of which are polyethylene.
Between these two layers
is the paper base that
absorbs the ink. This type
of paper is best suited
for dye-based printers,
despite some papers being
marketed as “universal,” meaning
compatible with pigment-based
printers, which they often
are not.
“A swellable paper
is a paper that literally
swells
in the presence of moisture,” says
Dan Steinhardt, marketing
manager for Epson America. “The
ink is absorbed into the
swellable layer. The problem
with swellable papers is
that they’re highly
susceptible at all times
to moisture, not just from
ink. It especially becomes
an issue for those living
in high-humidity environments.”
As the name suggests, porous
papers consist of spaces
where ink is deposited.
One of the benefits of
their special coating is
faster drying time and
a higher resistance to
damage from moisture and
humidity, as well as other
pollutants. Typically,
porous papers deliver better
results, in terms of lightfastness,
with pigment-based inks
than with dye-based inks.
“A porous paper has
many microscopic holes
so that
the ink can penetrate,” says
Steinhardt. “They’re
also known as instant dry
papers. They tend to also
be resin-coated papers
such as Epson’s Premium
Luster paper. The advantage
of such papers is that
you can use either dye-based
or pigment-based inks—both
are compatible.”
Cotton rag papers, also
referred to as fine-art
papers, consist of acid-free
and lignin-free cotton
fibers. These papers, which
include protective coatings
for resistance to pollutants,
offer the greatest lightfastness.
“Most of the fine-art
papers are cotton rag-based,
and
they’re buffered,
meaning that they have
been treated so that they’re
acid-free or neutral,” explains
Steinhardt. “This
is important because all
paper tends to have some
acidity as it’s being
manufactured. It also removes
lignin, which is one of
those inherent things that
can lead a paper to start
to yellow.”
Beyond issues of longevity,
the way an image is reproduced
on a particular paper is
a big consideration. The
whiteness, texture and
color-reproductive qualities
of a substrate make a huge
difference in the final
look of an image. So, it’s
important to consider what
you want to express with
each of your photographs.
There’s no one best
paper. Evaluating color
and tonality, as well as
the light resistance of
your prints, will round
out your assessment of
any photograph.
Pete
Turner’s Prints
Master photographer Pete
Turner has been considering
these elements while producing
prints for a retrospective
exhibition of his photographs
scheduled to open at the
George Eastman House Photographic
Museum in Rochester, New
York. For him, the choice
of paper was important.
“I was tempted at
one point to go with a
matte-type
surface,” Turner
says. “But I’m
a photographer, and I really
wanted to make photographs
that look like photographs.
I’m using Epson’s
Premium Luster paper because
I think it’s the
closet thing to silver-halide
photographic paper.”
Turner takes great care
in handling his 17x22-
and 24x36-inch prints from
the moment they’re
produced from his Epson
Stylus Pro 4800 and 7800
printers.
“You only handle
prints from the opposite
corners
because you don’t
want to ding them,” he
says. “What we tend
to do is, once the photographs
are out of the printer,
we put them on foam-core
boards. Anytime we’re
moving them, we’re
sliding them from one board
to another, and we never
pick them up unless it’s
from opposite corners.
By sliding your prints,
you avoid nicking or dinging
them.”
An important step on the
way to matting and framing
the prints is placing interleaving
tissue on the surface of
the prints. Though resin-coated
papers dry almost immediately,
they still release a substance
called glycol. The substance
exists to help prevent
clogging in the printer’s
nozzles, and while it won’t
damage the print, it can
produce a fog or haze that
appears on the surface
of the glass.
To prevent this outgassing
when a photo is framed,
the interleaving tissue
is placed on top of the
print for a period of 24
hours. The release of the
gas will be evident, as
the interleaving tissue
will display waves
across its surface. Though
cotton rag and swellable
papers are less susceptible
to this, it’s a good
idea to cover prints with
this tissue to protect
them until they have been
properly framed and printed.
Mats and Framing
A mat is an important element
for exhibiting your prints.
Besides giving a professional
appearance to your image,
it prevents contact between
the photograph and the
glass of the frame.
Your choice of mat is just
as essential as the paper
on which you’ve printed
your photograph. Like the
paper, the mat itself needs
be made of materials that
are both acid- and lignin-free
to ensure the longest life
of the print. Some museum-quality
mats are made of 100% cotton
fibers and include calcium
carbonate buffers to eliminate
acidity. Even the adhesive
tape used to secure the
print to the mat should
be made specifically for
archival framing.
Companies such as Light
Impressions (www.lightimpressionsdirect.com)
offer a wide selection
of mats and frames that
are excellent for photographs.
Many are available in precut
sizes or can be custom
cut for off-size prints.
If you’re submitting
your images to a professional
framer, ask what materials
are being used to mat and
frame your photographs.
For Turner, the size of
the mat plays a big role
in how his images will
be displayed.
“For the show, we
experimented with different-sized
mats,” he
says. “We tried a
three-inch and a four-inch
mat and just compared them,
and then we looked at the
frames. We’re going
to have a light gray wall
for the show, and I didn’t
want the viewer to be too
focused on the frame. So
we went with a very simple
frame and ended up picking
a three-inch white mat.”
Whether you’re a
master photographer preparing
images for an exhibit or
an enthusiast decorating
a home with your favorite
photographs, you’ll
find that framing is as
much of an art as the photographs
that they showcase. By
being methodical in producing
your prints and choosing
the best materials, you
can ensure that your photographs
not only will look their
best, but also will last
for years to come.
|
|