Five Fixes for Point-and-Shoot Macros - 1/5/09
High-magnification Tips for Every Compact Camera
|
|
There seem to be a million mode settings on most digital cameras, including the tiniest of point-and-shoots. One of those modes is likely to be represented by an illustration of a flower. It’s Macro Mode. Getting great macro photos (technically any photo in which the image size approximates the actual size of the subject) is a challenge even with specialized pro gear. But just because it’s tricky doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try it—even if you’re armed with only a point-and-shoot. There are lots of options for great macro shots from a point-and-shoot. Try some out today and you’ll be amazed at the world that opens up before your eyes.
Accessory Lenses
Even if your camera doesn’t utilize interchangeable lenses, you can still add-on more glass to modify the camera’s capabilities. Macro filters and close-up attachments are a great way to take your camera’s macro quality to a whole new level. Best of all, these lenses are less like SLR glass, and more like filters, so they’re a very inexpensive way to get great results with any camera.
Use a Tripod
Just because you’ve put your camera in Macro Mode doesn’t mean the macros will magically happen. When you’re focusing that close, to an object that small, every little camera shake and bump translates into a massive change in the composition, focus and overall sharpness. A tripod is invaluable for most macro photography. The good news is that with really small subjects, a really small (and often inexpensive) tripod is even more appropriate than the full-size pro models.
Steady the Shutter Release
Adding to the solid support of a tripod, a cable release is an ideal way to minimize camera shake and lens blur in macro photographs. The problem with compact cameras is that they don’t often incorporate cable releases. The good news, however, is that most do come with a built-in self-timer—often 2 or 10 seconds. Obviously 2 seconds is preferable (so you don’t have to wait around forever after pushing the button) but either way will work. The key is to let the camera steady itself before the exposure, and using the timer to keep your hands off is a great way to accomplish that.
Get the Right Focus If your camera offers manual controls, this step is where it pays off. The ability to manually focus and adjust the aperture is infinitely helpful when shooting macros. The truth, however, is that many point-and-shoot cameras don’t offer comprehensive manual controls—particularly when it comes to focusing. If your camera does, this is the time to use it by setting the lens to its minimum aperture—like f/22 or f/32. If you can’t, though, all is not lost. Set your composition so that the camera will autofocus correctly at the moment of exposure. Better yet, rely on the previous steps timer to readjust the composition after focusing and pressing the shutter release. Don’t forget to adjust the zoom for closer or farther focusing, as the focal length often affects a macro mode’s ability to close focus.
Light it Up
When you’re close to a tiny subject, there are two inherent lighting problems. First, you’re likely blocking most of the light with your body—or at least with the body of your camera. If your body is doing the damage the self-timer or a cable release allows you to get away from the scene in time to avoid casting a gloomy shadow over everything. Whether it’s your camera or your body darkening the frame, you can utilize reflectors and fill cards to bounce light back into the shadows and brighten up your subject. This is particularly necessary when dealing with the second lighting issue—turning off the flash. Because the built-in flash is so close to the subject, chances are you will completely obliterate all appreciable detail if you try to use the on-camera flash. The best-case scenario will still leave the scene inconsistently illuminated. Instead, maximize the scene’s brightness by moving your body out of the way, and filling in with reflectors.
0 Comments