1 Locking Focus
Since most people typically compose photographs with the subject in the center of the frame, most cameras are designed with the AF sensors in the middle. This results in sharp pictures for the average snapshooter. However, if you want a more dynamic composition, find ways to position your subject off-center.

Although this results in the AF sensor missing the subject, you can correct it by locking autofocus. Place the subject in the center of the frame and depress the shutter release button halfway until the focus indicator light tells you that the camera has focused. While maintaining pressure on the button, recompose your photograph and then fully depress the shutter release to take your picture. This technique also minimizes the impact of shutter lag because you’ve eliminated the time needed to focus.

2 Locking Exposure
Although auto-exposure can handle complicated lighting situations extremely well, there may be times when you choose to override the exposure or use its bias to your advantage. Use the same technique for locking focus.

In a heavily backlit scene, your camera balances the exposure between the bright sky and the front of your subject, which is in shadow. The compromise exposure may be fine, but what if you want something more extreme? For more detail in the shadows, tilt the camera down to include less sky; for a silhouette, tilt it up. In either case, after you’ve slightly depressed the shutter release button and recomposed the picture, the final image will be exposed much differently.

3 Anytime Or Forced Flash
Flash makes the difference between getting and not getting the shot when there’s little to no light. Yet, even when there’s sufficient ambient light (for example, sunlight, lamps, stage lights), flash can dramatically transform your photograph.

If you’ve ever shot an image at noon, you’re all too familiar with the harsh shadows that appear beneath a subject’s nose, chin or brow. Turn on the flash, however, and the camera often delivers enough light to fill in those shadows and reveal important details like the color of the eyes. Because it’s weaker than the dominant sunlight, fill-flash won’t overwhelm the picture, but instead complements the existing light and reduces the harsh contrast.

Compact cameras offer a variety of modes for the built-in flash: auto, red-eye reduction, slow-sync, anytime flash and flash cancel. These modes are normally accessed by repeatedly pressing the flash mode button until that symbol, a lone lightning bolt, appears on the screen. Don’t select the double lightning bolt symbol; that’s the red-eye reduction mode.

4 Slow-Sync Flash
Very similar to using flash during daytime, slow-sync flash can dramatically improve your photographs in the evening or indoors. Normally, in a dark scene, the flash properly illuminates the foreground, but the background falls deep into shadow (the shutter speed isn’t slow enough to register the ambient light on the sensor).

When you select the slow-sync or Night scene flash mode, the shutter speed is reduced to 1/8 sec. or even slower. The longer shutter speed has no impact on the flash exposure, whose duration is 1/1000 sec. or shorter. The result is a well-exposed foreground and more details and color in the background. Because of the slower shutter speed, brace the camera on a tripod or a wall. Experiment, though—some prefer the slight motion effect created by handholding the camera.

5 Continuous Shooting Mode
While your camera’s continuous shooting mode captures several frames of fast action, it also can be used for subjects that are standing still. When shooting close-up objects or portraits in moderate to low light, the sharpness of your image can suffer from the slight vibration of the camera when your finger presses the shutter release button. A slight vibration may be enough to soften the image and reduce the crispness of the highlights.

With the continuous shooting mode, the camera will take two, three or more photographs in quick succession. While the very first image will be affected by the vibration, the following images will be noticeably sharper. To ensure consistent results, maintain full pressure on the button until the camera has stopped taking pictures. When you compare the images on your computer screen, you’ll notice differences between the first and latter images taken within fractions of a second of one another.

Some camera models offer two continuous shooting modes, the second providing a faster firing rate. Use this for shooting action and defeating the problem of shutter lag. Unlike film cameras, where you’re concerned about running out of film, digital allows you to shoot as many frames as can fit on your card. So, hold the shutter release button until the camera stops shooting its three, four or 18 frames.

6 Self-Timer
Pros frequently use a remote release for close-up or landscape photography when using a moderate to slow shutter speed; this minimizes the impact of vibration on your photographs. While many digital cameras don’t provide a connection for a remote release, your photographs don’t have to suffer as a result.

The self-timer is available on nearly every camera and offers a good solution. Typically designed with a 10-second delay, the self-timer counters any vibration produced by handling the camera, allowing time for it to subside before the shutter releases. Some models allow you to adjust the delay time to as little as two seconds. Use this technique as a substitute for a cable or remote release.

7 White Balance
Correct white balance is very important for digital photography. The camera has to be properly set to accommodate the different colors of light under which you’re shooting: tungsten (orange), overcast (blue) or fluorescent (green). Auto white balance and the specific presets for help ensure that all your colors are captured accurately.

However, there are times to use an alternate white balance. For a portrait shot under normal daylight, choose the Open Shade or Overcast setting to produce a warmer tone. Simulating the color of light later in the day, the warm tone appears more flattering, especially with portraits. Or try a more moody tone by selecting the Tungsten setting, which results in a bluish tint as if the image was composed early in the morning before sunrise. Use the Cloudy setting for sunrise or sunset in order to increase the warmth and saturation of colors.

8 Exposure Modes
Most of today’s digital cameras include pre-set exposure modes that are optimized for different types of photography: portraits, landscape, action and more. The metering, shutter and aperture are all biased for a particular type of shot. These biases can be used for different types of photography.

In Portrait mode, the camera chooses a wide aperture in order to decrease the depth of field, creating a slightly out-of-focus background, but a sharp subject. The metering will emphasize the center of the frame, where your subject is most likely to be. The effect will be made more dramatic by shooting at your lens’ maximum telephoto focal length to further decrease the depth of field.

The Landscape mode biases the setting to achieve a great image as well. For landscapes, the camera will use a smaller aperture to maximize depth of field, allowing for a relatively sharp foreground and background. The exposure also will be adjusted to accommodate the presence of sky and reduce the possibility of underexposure. In moderate or low light, make sure to use a tripod, as the camera’s use of a slower shutter speed will make it more susceptible to camera shake.

The Sport mode biases the exposure for a fast shutter speed and a wide aperture, and is great for photographing active children and pets. The high shutter speed freezes the subject and the shallower depth of field helps to separate them from the background.

While perfect for photographing tiny objects, the Close-Up mode is very effective for photographing details in large objects: the ornate carvings of a door, the peeling paint of an old wall or the hands of a stone sculpture. The camera’s selection of a moderate aperture and the meter’s bias for a good, overall exposure results in excellent images.

The Standard Program mode is designed for general photography. Whether it’s a snapshot of a family member or a local landmark, this easy-to-use mode makes it simple to create a good image. However, you don’t have to be a slave to the shutter speed and aperture selected by the camera. Many cameras allow you to vary the shutter speed/aperture combination by simply turning a dial. So, while the camera may choose 1/125 sec. and ƒ/8 for an exposure, you can simply choose a reciprocal combination while maintaining a correct exposure, such as 1/60 sec. at ƒ/11 or 1/250 sec. at ƒ/5.6. Don’t worry about the combinations, as the camera will handle them automatically.

By shooting the same scene with different shutter speed and aperture combinations, you can achieve a variety of unique looks.